Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
